Beta Hydroxy Acid vs Alpha Hydroxy Acid is a common debate in skincare, especially when it comes to exfoliation. These chemical exfoliants have revolutionized modern skincare by offering smoother, clearer skin without the need for abrasive scrubs. Both AHAs and BHAs are powerful ingredients, but understanding their differences is key to choosing the right one for your skin type. In this article, we will outline the conversation between ” AHA vs BHA” so you can learn about the differences and how to select the right exfoliant for your skin needs.
What is Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)?
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) are a type of water-soluble exfoliant, often derived from fruits, milk, and sugars. Well-known AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. These acids work by loosening the “glue” that keeps dead skin cells anchored on the surface so that a fresh, new layer comes to the surface.
Popular Types:
- Glycolic acid – from sugarcane, highly effective for resurfacing.
- Lactic acid – from milk, known for its hydrating properties
- Mandelic acid – from almonds, gentler for sensitive skin
A 2013 study published in the Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology reported that glycolic acid treatments improved photoaged skin, fine lines, and texture after a few weeks of use.
AHAs Benefits
- Improving texture and tone
- Diminishing dark spots
- Hydrating the skin by enhancing the skin’s natural moisturizing factors
Best for: Dry, dull, sun-damaged, or aging skin that needs resurfacing and glow.
What About Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)?
Beta Hydroxy Acid, which is oil soluble, meaning that it can penetrate deep into the pores to clear out both sebum and dead skin cells. Because of its ability to deeply clean pores, BHA is one of dermatologists’ preferred agents for treating acne, blackheads, and congested skin.
Star Player:
- Salicylic acid, derived from willow bark, is famous for targeting acne and inflamed pores. A 2023 review states that salicylic acid is effective in the treatment of acne vulgaris because of its anti-inflammatory, comedolytic, and antimicrobial properties.
What are the benefits of using BHA?
- Deep pore cleansing
- Reduction of blackheads and acne breakouts
- Minimizing the appearance of large pores.
Must Read: Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA): Benefits, Uses & Best Skincare Products
Best for: Oily, breakout-prone, or combination skin, with flare-up
AHA vs BHA: Side-by-Side Comparison
Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide which exfoliant fits your skin best:
| Feature | AHA | BHA |
| Solubility | Water-based | Oil-based |
| Action | Exfoliates surface | Clears inside pores |
| Ideal for | Dry, dull, sun-damaged skin | Oily, acne-prone skin |
| Examples | Glycolic, Lactic, Mandelic acid | Salicylic acid |
| Skin Sensitivity | May sting or cause redness | Gentler, anti-inflammatory |
AHA vs BHA: Which One Is Right for You?
Still wondering which wins in the battle of Beta Hydroxy Acid vs Alpha Hydroxy Acid? Your skin type will lead the way.
- Consider AHAs if you want to target glow, texture, or signs of aging. AHAs are generally your go-to ingredients for skin renewal and hydration.
- BHAs are if your greatest concern is breakouts, clogged pores, or patches of oily skin. BHAs are generally going to focus more on the pores and will tend to be more calming.
Can You Use Both AHAs and BHAs?
You may use both AHAs and BHAs in your routine, just not in the same step. Alternating AHAs and BHAs gives you a well-rounded approach to exfoliation. For example, you could use AHAs in the morning and BHAs in the evening. When pairing, consider pairing AHAs with hydrating ingredients (hyaluronic acid is a good example) and pairing BHAs with niacinamide for extra benefits, clearing your pores.
Smart Acid Use: What to Avoid
To maintain healthy skin and avoid irritation, consider following the recommendations by dermatologists:
- patch test new acids
- Always start with a low concentration (under 10%)
- Always back the acid with moisturiser to protect the skin barrier
- Wear broad-spectrum SPF daily (acids make skin more likely to be UV-sensitive).
Do not mix with retinol or strong vitamin C unless instructed by a professional.
Final Thoughts on AHA vs BHA
So, is one truly better? It’s not about which is the best option – rather, which is the best option for YOU. Choose AHAs if you want smooth, bright, and even skin.
Choose BHAs if you have acne, blackheads, or oiliness.
Pro Tip: A lot of people benefit from both – just start slowly and listen to your skin!
